The Epicure's Almanac or Diary of Good Living
December 20th : PIG’S HEAD ROASTED
Divide the head of a young porker in half, take out the brains, and cleanse the interior thoroughly “par le moyen d'une petite canule.” Put stuffing of breadcrumbs, sweet herbs, and lemon peel, elsewhere given, into the space once occupied by the brains of the sapient animal; tie the head together carefully; a stitch or two is advisable to render all secure; let it roast according to its size, and serve with brain and currant sauce.
It is scarcely possible, in these enlightened days, when our scullions jabber French, that any part of this direction should require translation; but as I wish on all occasions to be clearly understood, I beg leave, in the event of an English meaning being desired, to refer the reader to the first volume of Tristram Shandy, where, in the sixtieth page, Lawrence Sterne puts the meaning of the phrase beyond all possible doubt.