The Epicure's Almanac or Diary of Good Living
June 11th : SALMON
In purchasing salmon avoid split fish, and select the middle part in preference.
Be sure that the kettle contains sufficient water to cover the fish; when it boils put in a good handful of salt, and as the scum rises skim it carefully off, then put in the fish, properly secured with twine or tape, and boil gently in the proportion of a quarter of an hour to every pound of salmon.
Some cockney admirers of this fine fish will pretend to tell you the precise part of the river Thames in which the fish was caught, by some peculiar flavour. For myself, I classify salmon thus:-
Wye, Severn, Shannon, Tay, Dee, Thames, and Newcastle, the first-named being the best, the last worst .